By Carol Chelemer and Steve Raucher
As our band of 22 prepared to travel to Israel this fall, we were constantly advised to use all of our senses to experience the country. These are some of our impressions as we reflect upon our two weeks of touring.
Israel is a modern, high-tech society. We had Wi-Fi on our tour bus! We visited the University of the Negev, where we learned that Israel leads the world in recycling. It now has an abundance of water, due to de-salinization, and 80 percent of its sewage is reclaimed as water for irrigation. Solar projects, however, have been defunded as a surplus of natural gas has been discovered off the coast of Haifa.
The people are friendly but deeply divided on many of the issues affecting Israel, its society and its neighbors. During a walk in Jaffa/Yafo, led by a team of an Israeli Arab and an Israeli Jew, we learned about the history of that place through the eyes of each – expanding our understanding of the difficulties (perhaps impossibilities) of coming to an agreement where all sides can live in peace and equality.
Most Israelis are non religious. (The major activity on Yom Kippur is bicycle riding in the empty streets.) There is little discussion of pluralism, but we did find conservative, egalitarian kehilot in both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. We were welcomed to a crowded, upstairs sanctuary in Tel Aviv to celebrate Kabbalat Shabbat [with instruments] — a joyous occasion to begin our first Shabbat in Israel. However, the congregation consisted of at least 90 percent tourists.
We had excellent speakers almost every evening and learned about many facets of Israeli life. We learned that the educational system faces many of the challenges we do in the United States, but we were surprised when our guest speaker, an educator who has worked as a school principal as well as an administrator in the Ministry of Education, seemed oblivious to the “separate but equal” treatment Israeli Arabs get in their segregated schools.
We spent a day at Neve Shalom/Wahat al-Salam village, a joint venture of Arab and Jewish families to live together and send their children to school together. However, they appear to receive no government support or outside recognition, and their efforts to show co-existence can work goes unpublicized. Older Israelis, while they desire peace, articulate that it is not possible as the Arabs always negotiate in bad faith.
Some progress has been made in assimilating minority populations into Israeli society. However, Arab citizens of Israel still form an underclass. We admired the efforts of two Bedouin women who are empowering their “sisters” with an embroidery workshop and literacy lessons. We saw first hand the poverty reflected in the many unrecognized (by the Israeli government) Bedouin settlements and heard our tour guide’s concern that the Bedouin people are lacking access to infrastructure and his frustration as an Israeli that this situation persists.
We did share some unique and memorable experiences, like having alliyot on Shabbat morning in both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem; making Havdalah at the Robinson Arch (Western Wall) in Jerusalem; having dinner and a show, served and performed by deaf and blind adults; visiting an adult special education club and being interviewed by its members; learning more about the heroism of those who fought for the creation and continuation of Israel (Palmach, Hagganah, Ben Gurion, Rabin, Ayalon Bullet Plant, etc.).
We became a community of our own, friends meeting people and making new friends. Most of all we are truly thankful for Barbara and Gene Ridberg’s efforts in organizing our trip, which took place from Oct. 22 through Nov. 6. We are thankful for the companionship of our fellow travelers: Barbara, Gene, Susan, Alan, Helen, David, Fran, Susan, Martin, Sandra, Gene, David, Roz, Larry, Lois, Richard, Merry, Dorothy, Celia and Len.
This was an experience of a lifetime, which we are anxious to share in greater detail than space permits here. We hope many of you will come to our discussion group after Shabbat services on Dec. 21 for lots more information and insights.
